Belay On!

There is a tremendous amount of debate surrounding belay devices these days. With so many models flooding the market, each with their own unique promises and gimmicks, it’s hard to separate one from the other. Figuring out what you need can be a somewhat daunting task, but there are some easy pointers to keep in mind, and some key differences between all belay devices.

Mechanized

One of the main differences between belay devices is whether or not it has moving parts. Belay devices such as the Petzl Gri-Gri or the Trango Cinch have mechanical components that assist the belayer (either by helping put the break on when the climber falls or holding the break on without the belayer actively holding the break rope down). While these devices may seem convenient and helpful, in the wrong hands they can be downright dangerous and without proper training these devices should be avoided. They are, however, excellent options for belaying and when used properly are perfectly safe and incredibly easy to use.

Locking

Even if a belay device is “non-mechanical” it can still “lock-assist” on the break rope when set up certain ways or help with the amount of friction in the system. Devices such as the Mammut Smart have “lock-assist” features much like some of the other mechanical devices without the cost or additional moving parts. Devices like the Black Diamond ATC XP (the one with the “teeth”) can be set up in multiple ways to increase or reduce the amount of friction when belaying for a climber in certain circumstances (thicker/thinner rope, heavier/lighter climber, etc.).

So the next time you need a new belay device, just remember these few simple facts and you’ll have a clearer picture of what product will fill your needs. And as always, our helpful staff is more than willing to go over all of the products in our pro shop with you.

Belay Hard.

- Red